Xueyan Shen

The inspiration for my current collection originates from pebbles I collected by the seaside. Their unique colours and textures captivated me, leading to a process of arrangement and photography that evoked the minimalist beauty of Muqi's ‘Six Persimmons’ from the Song Dynasty. This initial spark inspired deeper research into ancient Song Dynasty paintings, where I found the architectural lines in the artworks providing additional creative pathways. The result is a collection that seamlessly blends the rustic charm of nature with the timeless elegance of Daoist aesthetics, embodying the philosophy of ‘following the rules of nature.’

Colour plays a pivotal role in this collection, with hues meticulously extracted from the pebbles and enriched by incorporating analogous shades. My commitment to sustainability is reflected in the use of natural yarns, chosen not only for their environmental benefits but also for their ability to evoke a deep emotional connection and a sense of tranquility and stability. Some yarns were repurposed from previously discarded samples, unraveled and used primarily as inlay yarns. Linen, with its properties best representing rustic charm, is the primary yarn in this collection.

A consistent theme in my work is the blurring of boundaries between knitting and weaving. Building on this idea, I conducted extensive research and experimentation, comparing different yarns and textures to find the ideal combination: linen and paper yarn. Using linen as the primary yarn, supplemented by paper yarn and small amounts of wool and cotton for inlay, I developed a fabric that balances strength and light permeability while maintaining necessary density.

Drawing from the architectural lines observed in Song Dynasty paintings and the relationships between doors and windows, I extracted line-based patterns. I simulated these patterns using various knitting structures, allocating colours and proportions to reflect the architectural influences. Due to the lack of elasticity in linen yarn, achieving the right structure and tension required knitting numerous samples. After extensive trials, I settled on a knitting structure that combines inlay, ripple, and floating techniques. This structure allowed me to distribute knitting patterns and colours into grids, culminating in a piece of window dressing called ‘558,’ named after the number of rows knitted for this piece.

Following a similar approach, I created ‘1121,’ incorporating 'windows' through floating stitches. By combining linen yarns of different thicknesses, I achieved an uneven surface that beautifully showcases the rustic charm of linen. When sunlight filters through, the shadows cast by the window dressing on the wall sway with the wind, creating a visual effect of tranquility.

This collection reinforced my creative core: “keep simplicity and follow the rules of nature.” Utilising sophisticated craftsmanship to express the rustic charm of nature, the slow-paced process of handcrafting allows me more time to connect with myself and feel the material. This approach not only aligns with my lifestyle but also represents my commitment to practicing sustainability. Through my work, I strive to create pieces that possess a timeless beauty, embodying the philosophy of slow-making and sustainable living.